Archive for January, 2011

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Istanbul – Ancient & Modern

January 25, 2011

Posted by Kanga.

The very first thing I noticed about Istanbul looking out the van window while being driven from the airport along the coastline to our hotel was that ancient and modern are melded together. Unlike Dubai, where a ten year old building is considered ripe for the wreaking ball, Byzantine and Medieval walls and buildings are simply incorporated into modern constructions.

children's park, ancient wall and mosque

modern street ending at an ancient wall

You never know when you will look down a street and see an ancient wall.

Or an old tree around which building, awning and sidewalk wrap.

houses and ancient wall

new houses and old brick structure

a cafe built on ancient stone wall and backed by stone wall

street scene showing several time periods of building

modern building and 1777 building

One explanation of the origin of Turkish Delight is that it was invented by Bekir Effendi the founder of this confectionary established in 1777 and still operating today. Of course, we went in and bought some. Yum!

store window

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Akbiyik Mosque

January 25, 2011

Posted by Kanga.

When one of our Twitter friends saw that we are in Instanbul and staying near the Blue Mosque, he messaged us to look for the Akbiyik Mosque in our neighborhood. It is one of the oldest mosques built in Instanbul – 1464 C.E. (or A.D., if you prefer) – and among Istanbul mosques is the nearest to Mecca. Why did our friend bring this to our attention? Because it was built by his ancestors, his family heritage.

So, here it is, literally just a few steps from our hotel.

mosque

The sign explaining the history:

sign explaining history of the mosque

The view from Akbiyik Mosque up the hill to the Blue Mosque:

view from Akbiyik mosque up the hill to the Blue Mosque

Thanks Khaled for bringing this to our attention. It brings a personal touch to the history we are seeing all around us.

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Tourist Area Backstreets

January 25, 2011

Posted by Kanga.

We walked through the backstreets of our neighborhood this morning. Here are a few of the sights.

graffiti picture of Olive Oyl as a geisha

Ever thought of Olive Oyl as a geisha? Someone did. (This is my new Facebook pic.)

wooden cart

Shortly after I took the above image a man came down the street pushing a similar cart and calling out something in Turkish. He had some scrap metal in his cart. He parked his cart next to this one.

wooden houses

While I was stopping to take the above picture, the street sweeper (a man with a broom and a dirt pan made out of a broom handle and a large plastic bottle) spoke to Paul in Turkish. From the focus of his gaze on Paul’s beard, we concluded he was remarking on the awesomeness of the beard.

wooden house with a stone fence

I took this picture just because I think it is beautiful and undoubtedly even more so in the spring and summer when the trees are green.

ancient stone gateway

This is the gateway out of our backstreet area to the main road that runs along the side of the Sea of Marmara.

So, there you have the first ten minutes of our day, yesterday.

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Istanbul Street Views

January 24, 2011

Posted by Kanga.

Here are some random street views I’ve taken so far.

view down a cobblestone street to the sea of MarMara

The above picture did not come out particularly well, but at the end of this street is a lovely view of the Sea of Marmara.

man blocking traffic with a wheeled rack

This was a rather Dubai-like traffic situation. A man was pulling a wheeled cart across a narrow street blocking several cars. He was in no hurry.

street view with a textile shop five stories tall

I took this picture for the five story tall textile shop, but what stands out is the yellow Playstation sign. Oh, well.

main street with tram line down the middle and a man carrying a large sack on his back

This is the street with the tram running down the center. I was just going to take a basic photo, but saw this guy coming with his sack out of the corner of my eye, so waited a little bit.

tram tracks down the center of the street

This is the same street from a slightly different angle.

cobblestone street with yellow buildings on both sides

This is just a beautiful city.

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Turkish breakfast

January 23, 2011

Posted by Kanga.

In comparison to yesterday’s 4 mile hike, 2 mile tram ride, today was a rest day.

We trooped up the hill.

steep hill with cobblestone street

It is Sunday, so we discovered that many businesses, including restaurants were closed. We did not research before hand what the weekend days are here – Friday & Saturday? Friday & Sunday? Saturday & Sunday? Since this is a country with both a significant Muslim and Christian citizenry, we weren’t sure. (The answer – Saturday & Sunday.)

We did, however, find an open restaurant and were delighted to see “full breakfast” on the menu. So, for 20 lira each ($12.72 or 46.72 AED – we are in a tourist area, or it would have been cheaper), we had full Turkish breakfast.

10 bowls of various cheese, butter, sauces, vegetables

Three cheeses, honey, almond sauce, olives, cucumbers & tomatoes, two butters, fruit sauce, bread — and then the eggs came.

scrambled eggs with sausage

After stuffing ourselves and downing uncounted cups of tea, we ventured out into the rain to return to our hotel room and get my winter coat. Yes, I broke down and wore a coat. DaddyBird had already equipped himself with a light jacket.

We then decided that we needed groceries and that that would be our big adventure for the day. For our groceries we went further up the hill than our last grocery shopping adventure to a larger store. It had a corner entrance and was bigger on the inside than it looked on the outside, Tardis-like. Below is what we purchased for a whopping 55.70 lira ($35.42 or 130 AED).

bananas, bread, cheese, cucumbers, squash, pastrami, mayonaise, tuna, beer, cookies, mushrooms, spices, beans, meat, broccoli

Just getting broccoli crowns for 2 lira is amazing. Broccoli is fairly cheap back in the States, but definitely not cheap in Dubai.

The rest of my afternoon consisted of a long nap in our cozy hotel room and I may just pop in a Bollywood movie after dinner, who knows?

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A long walk in Instanbul

January 22, 2011

Posted by Kanga (With update below by Daddybird)

Blue Mosque

We walked all day. Our hotel is literally just a few blocks from the Blue Mosque. Above is what it looks like in the daylight. We did not go in. We’ll do that another day.

A 180 degree turn resulted in the below view of the Hagia Sophia (originally a Christian cathedral turned into a mosque and then turned into a museum). We didn’t go into that either. Again, something for another day.

Hagia Sophia

Everyone we saw was wearing down filled or wool coats. Here’s DaddyBird in his winter wear. It was pleasantly cool for us. I wore a turtleneck shirt. No coat necessary. It wasn’t windy. Would have been a different story if it had.

man photographing three cats

We saw many cats over the course of the day and this fellow cat lover.

two kittens

Case in point, here are a few we saw in a graveyard. There are many old graveyards throughout the city and they seem all to be populated with stray cats. This little white kitten was a sweetie and enjoyed some petting. Unfortunately, the little black one was quite pregnant. That’s the sad part of stray cats, kittens having kittens.

tabby calico mix cat

The Turkish men sitting on benches nearby thought we were crazy taking pictures and petting the cats. Maybe so, but we don’t care.

One of the beauties of Istanbul is that you can be walking along and find some ancient ruins laying alongside the sidewalk. This is the remains of the Triumphal Arch of Theodosius.

stone ruins

stone ruins

And you may even see a shoe and bag store on the ruins.

racks of shoes on the ruins
bags for sale on the ruins
statue of a lion killing a wildebeast

While I was taking this picture of this statue DaddyBird was in the background getting into a conversation with a Pakistani stranger. There were many conversations with strangers over the course of the day, although most were with hawkers trying to convince us to go to their carpet shop or art store or sit down at their restaurant. One restaurant hawker loudly declared his love for DaddyBird.

Roman aquaduct

More of the antiquity – Roman aquaduct.

DaddyBird’s beard was the big attraction of the day. Nearly everyone we passed gawked at him. Old men were impressed. Young men gazed enviously. Children giggled. I told him now he knows how well endowed women feel being looked at all the time.

menu in Turkish

We kept walking and got off the beaten path into the neighborhood where little or no English is spoken. We stopped into this kebab restaurant where they were pleased to see us and patient with our pointing to the menu to communicate what we wanted.

plates of kebab and pida

This pida and mixed grill meal cost us 38 lira ($24.00 or 89 AED).

restaurant sign

UPDATE: Here’s a map of the route we walked to today, which I created at http://www.gmap-pedometer.com/?r=4248034

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Eggs in a Baggy

January 22, 2011

Posted by Kanga

Our hotel room has a small kitchen – fridge, microwave, hot plate, dishes, utensils, etc. (including a juice press) – which means we won’t have to eat restaurant food three times a day for two weeks straight. Our hotel manager gave us a map and marked the sights we should see AND the nearby grocery stores.

At the nearest, which is a small convenience store, we bought the following items for 31 lira ($19.71 or 72.40 AED).
bread, butter, cheese, 4 candybars, onions, eggs, yogurt, juice, pistrami, popcorn

Pistrami, onions, yogurt, butter, eggs, juice, Nutella, popcorn, bread, cheese, and four candy bars. I love that the eggs come in a plastic bag.

six eggs in a plastic bag

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First Stroll in Istanbul

January 22, 2011

Posted by DaddyBird

I don’t usually get around to posting on this blog. Unfortunately I’m usually too busy writing, editing, proofreading, tweeting and configuring things elsewhere. Hopefully, I can get a few posts in while we’re here in Istanbul.

After getting settled in to our cozy room, grabbing a few things from a local market and having a bit of dinner, Kanga was wiped out. I was tired too, but just had to go out for a walk anyway. We’re only a couple of blocks away from the Blue Mosque! Why wait ’til tomorrow to see it? When I’m in a new place, I like to walk around and get the lay of the land as soon as possible anyway, so out I went.

I took some pictures while I was out. Of course some of them were of the local cats. They’re plenty of them around, which is the sign of a great city. 😀 (Lara and Terrence over at The GranTourismo Travel Blog have a cool post about the cats in Istanbul.)

An Istanbul street kitty

Took a few night-time pictures of the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia. They certainly don’t do to the structures justice, but then, I’m not sure that any pictures can.

Aya Sofia
The Blue Mosque

Walking distances are much shorter than I expected, which is great; we’re even closer to more of the sights that I knew. So far the city is just stunning. Can’t wait to see more of it in daylight. The weather is great! Nice and cool. While I was out walking around in 10 degree Celsius weather, wearing a t-shirt and no jacket, I was asked by several if I wasn’t cold. I told them I enjoy the cold, which I certainly do. This is my kind of weather. (Well, a bit cooler and rainier would be great too!)

Firuz Aga Camii

Our friend Rupert, who has lived in Istanbul, made a number of recommendations on places to go and things to do. One suggestion was to check out the pudding shops. I found one just a few steps away from Aya Sophia. The pudding is tasty, and the food looked good too, may go back for dinner.

A Pudding Shop!

I uploaded a few of the pictures that I took this evening to a Picasa album. Here’s the link: http://picasaweb.google.com/pauliancastle/Istanbul

Go down to the end of this street and turn left and you’re at our place.
This seems to be how they say, “Don’t park in front of this building” in our neighborhood.
Kitty in the window
On a sidewalk near the Blue Mosque; I think I’ve seen these exact items on sale in Naif! 😉

More soon!

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Istanbul Arrival

January 21, 2011

Posted by Kanga

four mean using climbing equipment to clean large airport windows
This was the site as we reached our departure gate at the Dubai airport. Now you know how they clean the windows. There was no water involved, so technically not washing the windows. They wiped them down with a broom covered with a cloth and had a window cleaner spray bottle for tough spots. They were also tightening the screws holding the windows in place as they went.

yellow taxi cab with sign that says taksi
Sometimes you don’t have to learn the language to get around. Taksi anyone?

narrow cobblestone street

This is the street our hotel is on. And below is our current window. For three days, we will be in the basement room, then we move upstairs to the top floor for the rest of our stay. (I need to train DaddyBird to reserve ground floor rooms. The stairs are spiral and very narrow.)

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Rainy Day

January 18, 2011

Posted by Kanga.

It’s been raining all day. For Pacific Northwesterners (U.S.) who have a plethora of words for describing rain, it has been mostly “sprinkling.” This denotes a very light rain (not as light as “misting”), but lighter than an actual “rain shower.” In Oregon, this rain would definitely not require the use of an umbrella and not even a coat, except for the wimpiest of citizenry.

But, since we, in the U.A.E. have brightly sunny and dry days nearly all year, this precipitation is of note. As I stepped out of the apartment building this morning I saw several book bags abandoned on the porch and three school boys standing out on the sidewalk where they could get (at least a little bit) wet. One was definitely exalting in the water falling from the sky with his head thrown back and his mouth wide open.

I enjoyed walking to the taxi stop near the mall, even though it was barely raining and the ground was nowhere near thoroughly wet, yet. It was also nice to ride in the taxi with the window down and enjoy the cool air rushing in.

I knew immediately that my taxi driver would be extraordinary, because he actually used his turn signal to indicate that he was pulling over to pick me up. Not only that, but he recognized my destination and offered me the choice of two routes to reach it. Wow! He asked me a few questions. Was I a teacher? Where am I from? (He guessed Australia. Surely, I speak better English than that. ;-)) I don’t usually have conversations with taxi drivers. Many have very limited English and then there is the cultural red tape attached to unaccompanied women. Most don’t initiate conversation and neither do I. (Not because I’m snobbish, but because I am a very private, introverted person who really doesn’t want to talk to strangers.) DaddyBird, on the other hand, with his “number one Muslim beard” gets into many a taxi driver conversation.

In other news, this Friday we will be traveling to Instanbul, Turkey. (Finally, after months of not traveling anywhere, we get to live a little “travel channel.”) We will be there for two weeks and will be blogging and sharing lots of pictures.

So, stay tuned.