Archive for the ‘culture shock’ Category

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Transliteration

September 11, 2008


Here is a picture of my name plate. Notice that it has my name transliterated in Arabic above it. (Read from right to left.) I especially like the long flat part. I’m not sure if that is how the letter is written or if they were lengthening it out to match the length of the English.

There is a lot of transliteration here, especially on store names. For example, Baby Shop is not shown in Arabic with the words for “baby” and “shop, ” but is spelled out in the Arabic letters that come closest to Baby Shop. They don’t have a “p,” so it is probably Baby Shob. A classic example is a furniture store called “2XL,” which in itself is a strange name, but it is transliterated in Arabic as “2eksl,” again no “x” in the alphabet.

I got new business cards, too. They are in English on one side and Arabic on the other. I took pictures and was going to post them here, but then thought twice about the wisdom of posting my contact info on a blog. Duh. So, you will just have to imagine what they look like.

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Living the Travel Channel – Residency visas

September 9, 2008

After very annoying and troublesome additional medical falderall, I received my residency visa. Almost in the knick of time, since for the first 30 days we were on temporary visas and those were about to run out. As of this writing, however, Paul’s remains a question. We have all the necessary paperwork, except the duly processed marriage certificate. Now, by duly processed, I mean a legal document obtained from the Oregon office of vital records, then sent to Salem to be authenticated by the Oregon State Dept., then sent to Washington DC to be authenticated by the US State Dept and then sent to the UAE Embassy in also in Washington DC for the final authentication. You can imagine that this process takes a while. Unfortunately, I do not know exactly where in this process my certificate it, but I know it ain’t here. So, hopefully, the director of immigration will take pity on my situation and sign my application to sponsor Paul’s visa anyway. I suspect that the plan B is to send Paul out of the country for a day (to Oman) and back in with a new 30 visitor’s visa. Hopefully, this will turn out to be another tempest in a teapot.

(Post script – we met the deadline and Paul can stay in country, however there is more to the process. Paul has to go through the medical exam process and then he should get his residency visa following that.)

In order to get a residency visa, you have to be sponsored by someone, either an employer or family member. Hence, the college sponsors me and I sponsor Paul. Seems like a reasonable way to control immigration, otherwise everyone would be coming here! However, it sets up some employment problems, because so many of those who do manual or blue collar labor are dependent on their employers in order to stay here. If you don’t like your job, you can’t just quit and get a new one. It also opens the door to blatant exploitation of those lower level workers. Many of them work 12 hour shifts 6-7 days a week for what we would consider low wages (better than what they could get in their home country, which is why they put up with it).

The thing that is probably most uncomfortable for us here, is being waited on. It’s one thing to have busboys in a sit down restaurant, but they have them here in mall food courts. People look at you strangely if you bus your own table. Also, even the juice kiosk in the mall has a seating area and they may take your order at the counter (if you don’t have the good sense to sit down first) and then you are expected to sit down and be waited on. There is a security guard in the entrance to our building. He is actually more than that, sort of a manager as well, although he wears a blue uniform. Whenever we come in from the store carrying bags, he offers to help us by carrying the bags up to our apartment. We always refuse and thank him for the offer. We are so used to being self-sufficient Americans, that the offer still surprises us. The people in
service type jobs also seem very eager to serve and a little put out if you don’t let them. They differ from the surly American busboy who would much rather be doing something else, somewhere else. The American idea that anyone can be president, a star, rich, etc., makes a service job a negative thing. I don’t know enough about the cultures of the people in service jobs here to know how deep their positive attitude goes. Are they eager to please because they are genuinely eager to please or only because it is the demand of the job.

On days when I have to take a taxi home from work, I wait in the lobby of the college administration building. It is large round area with granite flooring. And, regular as clockwork, there is a man mopping that floor (apparently everyday) at 5:30 pm, whether it needs to be mopped or not. When he comes by where I am sitting, I raise my feet so that he can mop under them and this seems to amuse him. He may very well be saying to himself “crazy American.” Who knows.

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Directions and Corrections

September 5, 2008

Well it turns out that buildings in Dubai will be getting street addresses! The Roads and Transport Autority (RTA) announced that a pilot program is underway to assign addresses to all building and roadways That will- hopefully- make it easier to find your destination, get deliveries and, most importantly, tell your taxi driver where you want to go!
It will, however, take away the satisfaction feels when successfully having managed to get the taxi driver to understand where you want to go without an address!
We don’t know yet how well this will work and how quickly they can implement it, but they are pretty good at getting things done here and improving things when necessary so I expect it won’t take too long.

In related news in my previous post titled “Where are we??” I included a map with some notes on it. One of the note stated that I didn’t think that the numbers given to the side streets were official. It turns out they are official. And there are even street sign to prove it!
Still, I don’t know who uses these to refer to the streets or to give directions. My only guess about them, besides being a bureaucratic reference, is that they may be used by emergency personnel. Perhaps they will be used in the upcoming addressing system. With the streets named, or at least numbered, all that has to be done is to give the buildings their own numbers. One problem with that is that it’s not obvious that the street number assignments is unique, that is, there may be a “4th street” in more than one area of town, which will require that the district name still be used to distinguish which 4th street you’re referring to. But that’s not a big problem, and it’s still easier than verbally guided navigation by landmarks.

If a lot less satisfying.

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Clothes

August 26, 2008

Let’s talk burkas (or burqa). Traditional Arab women wear a full length, long sleeved robe and a long head scarf. The robe is an abaya and the scarf is a shela. There is sometimes a veil that covers the face. These are black. [“burqa” refers specifically to the veil.- PC] The more conservative the person is the less skin is showing. Some even cover their eyes with black lace or netting. Those of us from the West can’t comprehend why anyone would want to go about in this heat covered from head to toe in black. Well, my friends, it is even hotter than that because under these robes is often a very fancy beaded/embroidered dress made of chiffon, satin, crepe, etc., or blue jeans or other “outer wear.” The abaya and shela are worn out in public, as a form of modesty. At home, these women have just as much love of beautiful clothes as the rest of us, maybe more. I was amazed at the number of dress shops in the mall that have elaborate “walk down the red carpet” type gowns in them. Abayas and shelas also are often beaded and embroidered, sometimes subtly in black and white designs and sometimes very colorful designs. I had thought that always wearing a scarf/shela on one’s head would mean not having to worry about one’s hair. Oh no, fancy hairdos are lurking under those scarves. All the vanities are alive and well under all that black.

We in the West also assume that it is a form of oppression or suppression of women. Not necessarily so.  In fact, it is the government’s policy to NOT hire a woman who has a veiled face. If she wants the job, she must give up the veil.  Not to say that there aren’t instances of oppression, discrimination, etc., but the burqa isn’t the problem.

Clothing for both males and females is tied to rites of passage. The girls start wearing the shela when they enter puberty. Prior to age twelve, boys wear caps/hats, then after 12 they wear a head covering tied in a particular manner. A man does not wear the dishdasha with the black cords until he is married. Women do not veil their faces until after they marry, for then their beauty is only for their husband. Again, the shela, abaya and veil are only worn in public, not in the home.

We were walking through Toys R Us one day to escape the heat for a few minutes and saw a display of Barbies all in their pink boxes and their Western clothes. Being a smart aleck, I said to Daddybird – “and not one of them in a burqa.” Low and behold, in the next row of shelves was Fulla – Barbie in a full burqa (actually, I don’t think there was a veil). There was also a more progressive Fulla in pastel colored clothes and a floral shela. Marketing triumph!

I got rid of most of my short sleeved shirts thinking that I wouldn’t be able to wear them and that I would be able to find new clothes here that fit the work dress code. Oops! Actually, I could have kept those short sleeves and worn them as long as I had a pashmina (shawl) to cover my upper arms. Dang! Also, it is not so easy to find plus size clothes here. Even clothes marked XL or XXL are apparently for extra large Asians, not a giant American like me. Luckily, the Marks and Spencer across the street (a British company) had my size. I need a sewing machine now more than ever. Daddybird will be out of luck in the clothing department, too. There is supposed to be a Big and Tall store somewhere, so we will have to find out where it is.

I have been surprised by the clothing available in the malls. Today we saw a t-shirt that said “Be Free to Feel Yourself the Way You Want.” Not sure what that means and maybe I don’t want to. I suspect it’s just created by someone for whom English is not their first or even second language. We are often amused by labeling on packages, too. Back to clothes, most of the stores in the malls that aren’t selling abayas or fancy gowns, are selling skin tight tees, mini-skirts and jeans. All of which are inappropriate to wear here, if one is culturally sensitive. Clearly, many are not.

I brought only two pairs of shoes with me, sneakers and sandals. Only the sandals are appropriate to wear to work, but they were causing blisters. In fact, I had a blister on my blister. After developing a third generation blister in that spot, I told Paul I couldn’t leave the mall without a new pair of shoes. As with clothes, it is hard to find shoes in my size. I managed to find a pair that will do, but must find a Dansko distributer soon.

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Shopping, driving, ogling

August 25, 2008

Saturday, August 16th – We experienced “weekend shopping” yesterday. We had been warned about it, but we had to check out of the hotel, so we needed things like sheets, towels, pots, pans, dishes, etc., in order to begin living in our new apartment. So, we had no choice. We took a taxi to Deira City Center, which is a large mall a short distance from here. Most of the things we needed could be purchased in Carrefour, a large (and I mean LARGE) store not unlike a super Walmart. I don’t think I have ever seen so many people in a mall or store at one time. It was a mad house, not unlike the old jokes about the JC Penney white sales. AND people here drive shopping carts like they drive cars.

We purchased our refrigerator (only appliance not provided with our apartment). If you are wondering about prices here, we got a large side by side with ice maker in the door (656 liter capacity – don’t know what that is in cubit feet) for approximately $1,300.00. Try that in the States! For the most part, prices are comparable or lower for most goods. The rents are sky high, but we don’t have to worry about that.

Gary B. asked what I would miss and I haven’t figured that out, yet. I have found many things that I am delighted are available, however. Fruit juice, REAL fruit juice is cheap and easy to come by. We can buy bottled lemonade that is actually made with lemons and tastes like lemons. Yummy! There are also many other fruit juices available – Mango, Orange, Apple, etc. I have yet to see CranApple, CranGrape, or CranWhatever. The juices aren’t all apple, pear, or white grape base with a little of the titled juice thrown in either. In fact, you can go to a food court restaurant and order fresh squeezed orange juice with your entree.

Our first load of laundry is running right now. The “directions” on the machine are all in symbols, so I hope I have guessed right. I thought the swirly symbol meant wash, but it turned out to mean spin, this lead to the discovery that I should read the symbols from the right to the left, not the left to the right.

It is interesting being out in public and discovering that you are some kind of oddity. The East Indian men “check me out” when I walk by, which wasn’t too unexpected, except that I am old, grey and overweight, so really didn’t expect to get ogled. On other occasions, though, women have given me a thorough look up and down, so I am not sure what that is about. My clothes are not unusual, so maybe it is my grey hair (which I have not seen much of on other people) or my weight (not many overweight people here either) or my pale skin (not much of that in the crowds where we’ve been shopping either). The cab driver, yesterday, seemed very interested in Paul’s appearance and asked us what country we were from. Perhaps he hasn’t seen a ruddy, red bearded guy before.

So, let’s talk about driving/traffic. The only thing I miss at this point is the freedom of having personal transportation. However, we are not in any hurry to start driving here. Lane markings are apparently only suggestions. You don’t actually have to stay in the lane as you round corners or even when driving straight. Changing lanes is done simply by nosing your car into the other lane. You can signal after the fact to let them know what you did. There is NO patience at a stop signal. If the light turns green and the first car does not immediately move forward, horns honk. No dilly dallying allowed. Construction is in progress everywhere, so detours are everywhere also. New buildings are going up everywhere, but infrastructure is not necessarily keeping up. There are plenty of main arterials, but the commute traffic problem is, in part, due to the lack of side street alternatives. No one has laid out a grid of streets, things just sprout up wherever and however large they want to. This plus the total lack of street addresses makes getting around a major challenge. Neither one of us is eager to join the chaos that is traffic.

The rapid transport train that is currently under construction will run right in front of our apartment building. I don’t know where the nearest station will be, but hope that it will be within walking distance. The train does not go right by the college, but will be a short walk (again depending on where the station is placed), although there is talk of a shuttle bus from the train to the college. It is scheduled to be completed in Fall 2009, so my hope is to hold out and taxi/carpool until then.

Sunday (tomorrow) is my first day of orientation/work. I’ll be glad to have something other than shopping to do and to be around others who are new and as bewildered as I. Will let you know how it goes.

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Arrival & First Day

August 19, 2008

My dear friend Colleen stressed the importance of having a snappy title for our blog. So, after considering Castles in the Sand and No More Food Stamps, we landed on Living the Travel Channel. After our experience arriving in the Dubai airport, it seemed appropriate.

The airport experience was amazingly easy, but only because there is a “welcoming” service that the College very kindly and wisely paid for. We were met near the gate by a representative who then guided us through the airport, through passport check, to baggage claim, through Customs and then delivered us to the College representative who then got us to the hotel. It would have taken us ten times longer had we been on our own. After Customs, we stepped out into the muggy, sweltering heat, or what we thought was the muggy, sweltering heat, and walked through a gauntlet of people holding signs for “Mr. Jones,” “Mr. Smith,” “Mr. Fred,” etc. (yes, it actually said Mr. Fred). Above us there were large fans blowing a heavy mist – hence the mugginess. I thought that wasn’t very helpful until we stepped out into the REAL outside area and were hit by the real heat. Remember this is at 10 pm, approximately. I didn’t have a thermometer handy, so can’t tell you exactly how hot it was, unfortunately. You will just have to imagine.

Our hotel is quite nice and only a short distance from the College. Were this December, we could walk there, but in this heat it is worth it to call a taxi or bum a ride. Every time I walk out of a building, my glasses fog up and it takes a while before I can see again.

Our first day was action packed. I was taken to the hospital by a College staff person to get my medical exam that is required for the residency visa process. Daddybird wanted to go along, thinking he could just wait in the waiting room, but she discouraged him from this idea and he had to wait for us at the hotel. It is too bad that he didn’t get to tag along, but it would have been a little ridiculous. The hospital clinic was a maze of hallways, twists and turns. The hallways were not necessarily airconditioned and were lined with men waiting to be seen by someone. There was a definite air of sweat, urine and heat. The book we read about Arab culture before coming indicated that it is who you know that is important and that pushing your way to the front of the line is standard practice, not considered impolite. My clinic experience was a clear example of this. I patiently waited while my guide chatted with the receptionist to get my paperwork started, then chatted with a woman who turned out to be the doctor, later. It was not at all like the American clinic where there is a set procedure, appointments and gatekeepers to keep you in line. The offices and exam rooms were right off the waiting room and the doors were open. Basically, you peaked in to see if there was another patient with the doctor, if not, barge right in, if so, wait right by the door so you can slip in as soon as that patient leaves. In the doctor’s area, there were few people waiting, but in X-ray, there was clearly a long line and my guide spoke to the staff and got me right in. Clearly, preferential treatment. Again, like the airport experience, without my guide it would have taken 10 times, or more, as long had I been on my own. Especially, if I were to be a polite American and wait my turn.

Because they were going to do an X-ray (to make sure I don’t have tuberculosis), the doctor asked if there were any chance of my being pregnant. She was completely mystified when I said that I had had a tubal ligation. She could not comprehend a woman with NO children choosing to have that procedure. Choice and planned parenthood are not in their worldview here. Family and children are paramount.

After we completed the medical exam in record time, we returned to the hotel to pick up Daddybird and go to the bank. Our guide dropped us off and we were on our own. Luckily, it was not too much different than getting an account in the U.S. Although, they asked seemingly irrelevant questions, like how many children did I have. Again, with the children!

The bank was in a small mall, so we walked around to see what was available AND to avoid going back out into the heat. Surprisingly, there were 2-3 lingerie stores in this little mall with some rather naughtly outfits displayed in the windows. Most of the women shoppers milling about the mall were in berkas, so the contrast was interesting. There was a food court with a pastry shop, a Subway Sandwich shop, and a generic fast food counter with burgers and some quasi-Chinese entrees. We managed to avoid having a Subway sandwich be our first purchased meal in Dubai. We found a little cafe instead. Daddybird had a breakfast plate with an omelet, beef bacon, tomatoes, cucumbers and olives (rather nasty, bitter olives, unfortunately). I picked the chicken mortadello sandwich not having the faintest idea what that would be. It turned out to be slices of chicken loaf, mayonaise, on a hoagy type bun that was apparently cooked on a George Forman grill. Not exactly an impressive meal.

We then ventured out to find a taxi to take us to the Lulu Hypermarket. Our task was to get local cell phones and to get some of the basic items we need like shampoo, toothbrushes, an alarm clock, etc. We have yet to find an alarm clock anywhere. Luckily, Daddybird figured out how to get his IPod to serve as an alarm clock.

From the Hypermarket we took a taxi back to the hotel, only to have to turn around and leave again. Our College housing person took us to see our new apartment. We had our choice of two in the same building. The apartment has two bedrooms, two full baths, and a large kitchen. The stove, dishwasher, washer & dryer are all provided. We will need to purchase our own refrigerator. The kitchen is spacious enough that we will be able to put a table or island in the middle of it and still have plenty of space. What a refreshing change from our previous teeny tiny kitchen. The living room is large and has a high ceiling. There is a sliding glass door in each room onto the balcony which stretches the lenghth of the apartment. It will be nice in the “winter” when we can bear to be out on the balcony. Our view includes the tallest building in the world, except that it is so hazy during the summer that we couldn’t really see it. There are a pool, sauna, and exercise room on the top floor of the building, so no more excuses, right? Unfortunately, the pool is outside, so not somewhere one would want to be in the heat of the day. As for the sauna, going outside is sauna enough for me.

After seeing our apartment, we went to the College, saw the library and emailed those who might be worrying about us that we had arrived safe and sound. A faculty member overheard that we were waiting for a taxi and offered to give us a ride back to the hotel. We then collapsed into to exhausted heaps. Not bad for a first day.

Well, this has been a rather long winded blog entry, hopefully you made it to the end. We will regail you with tales of shopping for furniture and whatever else we encounter in the next few days.